Now that we have our layers properly spaced in 3D space, it's time to introduce lighting to create depth and visual interest. Adding a light source will generate shadows and dimensional contrast, transforming our flat composition into something more cinematic. We'll then animate both the light and camera movement to create dynamic motion that draws the viewer's attention.

Let's create our first light source by navigating to Layer > New > Light. It's worth noting that the software offers several distinct light types—spot, directional, ambient, and point lights—each serving different creative purposes. The beauty of this system is its flexibility: you can experiment freely since any light type can be converted to another at any time without starting over.

For this particular setup, I'm selecting a point light, which radiates illumination omnidirectionally from a single source point. This creates natural-looking falloff and shadow patterns that work well for most 3D compositions.

I'll maintain the default white color and 100% intensity settings. While 100% isn't the maximum value—you can push intensity much higher—exceeding this threshold with white light typically results in blown-out highlights and loss of detail. For professional work, it's better to start conservative and adjust upward as needed.

The shadow controls deserve particular attention here. I'm enabling "Cast Shadows" and reducing the shadow darkness to 80%, which provides definition without creating overly dramatic contrast. This setting ensures our shadows enhance the composition rather than dominate it.

After some consideration, I'm adjusting this to 60% darkness—this creates a more balanced look. The darkness parameter controls shadow intensity exactly as you'd expect, but the real magic happens with the diffusion setting. Zero diffusion creates hard-edged, theatrical shadows, while higher values produce softer, more naturalistic shadow edges. For most professional applications, moderate diffusion values between 30-60 work best.

These settings aren't permanent, so don't worry about perfection on the first pass. Let's preview our results and make adjustments as needed.

You'll notice a small notification at the bottom of the dialog—most users overlook this, but it explains why shadows might not appear immediately. The system requires both casting and receiving settings to be properly configured.

  1. What we do have is a silhouette effect on the first ring, since the light source is positioned directly behind it, creating a backlit appearance that adds dramatic contrast to our composition.

To reposition the light effectively, I'll click on empty space first to deselect other elements. The most efficient way to move lights is through direct manipulation—clicking and dragging the light icon itself rather than the individual directional arrows. This allows free movement in all dimensions simultaneously.

I'm positioning the light near the camera position, being careful to grab the center of the light rather than the directional handles. Accidentally selecting an arrow constrains movement to a single axis, which isn't what we want for broad positioning adjustments.

If you're still not seeing shadows after positioning, there's a crucial settings relationship to understand. That dialog notification mentioned earlier explains that shadows only appear when layers are set to both cast and receive them. While all layers receive shadows by default, they're set to not cast shadows—a counterintuitive default that trips up many users.

Let's fix this by selecting our ring layers. I wish this setting appeared in the main Properties panel for easier access, but it's buried in the 3D-specific Material Options instead.

With the rings selected, I'll navigate to Material Options and enable "Cast Shadows." The transformation is immediate—our composition now has proper dimensional depth.

The Cast Shadows option actually offers three states: Off (no shadow casting), On (normal shadow casting while remaining visible), and Only (casts shadows but becomes invisible itself). The "Only" option is useful for invisible shadow-casting objects that enhance realism without cluttering your composition.

I'm only applying this to the rings because the background layer fills the entire frame and sits behind everything else—having it cast shadows would be computationally wasteful without visual benefit.

Now with our shadows active, I can fine-tune the lighting in real-time. Double-clicking the light opens live editing mode, where adjustments preview immediately. This workflow is invaluable for achieving precise lighting balance.

I'm settling on 60% shadow darkness—though you might prefer 70% depending on your aesthetic goals. The diffusion setting is equally important: higher values create softer, more cinematically pleasing shadow edges that feel less artificial.

The color picker opens additional creative possibilities. Light color directly tints your entire scene, so a slightly blue light creates cooler, more modern feeling, while warmer tones suggest golden hour or interior lighting. For this demonstration, I'm sticking with neutral white, but don't hesitate to experiment with subtle color temperature adjustments in your own projects.